Does Candra Have the Best Babi Guling in Bali?

Babi Guling Candra on Teuku Umar, Denpasar. Author photo.

One of Bali’s signature dishes is babi guling - a whole pig stuffed with herbs and spices and roasted on a spit, usually over a fragrant wood fire. No Balinese person need be informed about the food philosophy of nose-to-tail eating, in which every part of the animal is consumed or used in the preparation of a dish. Babi guling has always been eaten in that way.

It can be difficult to find pork in Indonesia, which is a predominantly Muslim country. But Bali’s Hindu roots mean that pork dishes are not only abundant, they have been honed into something that surpasses mere sustenance and travels into the realm of the sublime. Or maybe I’m just hungry. I have been stress-eating babi guling about three times a week for a while now, something which my wife cautions is unhealthy. I, however, find it difficult to believe that something so pure and beautiful as babi guling would do me harm.

Anyway, let’s get into it. There are a couple of famous babi guling places in Bali. Pak Malen in Seminyak is meant to be very good, and Ibu Oka in Ubud is in all the guide books. You can basically go down any road in Bali and throw a stone and you’ll hit a warung selling babi guling. I’m partial to Depot Candra, located on Teuku Umar in Denpasar - a bit removed from the tourist areas. A standard paket is a bit on the pricey side - 50,000 rupiah without a drink. That not only reflects the extreme popularity of their brand, but also the quality of the food. It’s worth it.

So what makes babi guling special? To me it’s because when the food comes out it feels like a little universe on a plate. On top are crispy, caramel shards of roasted pork skin laid next to two different kinds of skewered meats - regular pork sate and sate lilit, which is made from a pork, spice and coconut mixture Dig under that and you will find a variety of usus - dried pork innards - and a slice of urutan, which is pork sausage usually also made from pork intestines and sometimes fermented. The star of the dish is of course the pork meat, and at Candra you get big thick slices that are very tender and moist. These are then slathered in yet another spice mixture (bumbu). The bumbu at Candra is actually my favorite part of the dish, as it is salty and savory and packed with flavor.

Bumbu at Babi Guling Candra. Author photo.

The dish is rounded out with some veggies and a mixture of more pork and coconut and spices called lawar. The rice is served separately with a little dab of sambal, and a bowl of pork soup. The balance in this dish is what appeals to me. Everything has its place, and serves its purpose and together they create something greater than themselves.

Am I possibly over-thinking this roasted pork dish because I’ve gone mad from cabin fever and my brain has turned into porridge? It’s definitely almost certainly what has happened. But you should really find out for yourself, if you have the chance. At the moment Candra is open every day until around 8 PM and though business is much-reduced, they are still getting a steady stream of take-away orders and some sit-down customers. This, in turn, allows them to keep at least some staff working and earning a living (there are probably 10-15 people still working in there every day). And that is something I wholeheartedly support, even if I’m not that hungry.

So is Candra the best babi guling in Bali? That is not for me to say. But if you have an opinion, or think you know of a better spot, let us know in the comments!